Khadi Cotton, Silk

India/Pakistan, Punjab Province; c. early 1900’s

8′-5″ x 4′-9″ [2.6m x 1.45m]

condition: good; slight discolorations & darning, otherwise good condition

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We love this piece- an unusually wide four panel Phulkari with simple alternating floral field repeat of deep crimson embroidery with green stamen highlights. Structured and planned patterning and yet the wavering hand shows. Note one particular floral bud near center in bright fluorescent pink silk floss.

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=> Philadelphia Museum 2017

=> Jack Shainman Gallery 2006

=> Allentown Art Museum PA 1996

=> Museum Collections: V&A London, …

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Fashioned from joined panels of ‘Khaddar’ (home-spun, hand-woven and vegetable dyed cotton cloth created locally), a Phulkari ground fabric was embellished with untwisted soft silk floss embroidery employing a counted darning stitch and worked entirely from the reverse of the fabric. When making geometrical patterns, Phulkari were not stitched in one direction but horizontal and vertical stitches were combined leaving long floats on the front to form reflected light and color effects. Double running stitch was used for the narrative works, and a variety of stitch styles added too. The amount of work is mind boggling. Phulkari (literally “flower-work”), range from striking geometric patterns to charming folk narratives. In every work ‘mistakes’ were often intentionally introduced as a show of humility by the artisans who believed only God could produce perfection.